Journey to the heart of Domaine of the Lambrays
The team from Domaine of the Lambrays welcomed us this week for a visit to discover its vineyard and exceptional cellars. We therefore left our Lyon office in favor of the vineyards located in the commune of Morey-Saint-DenisThe landscapes of the Côte de Nuits They pass by under a timid sun and here we are, arriving at the gates of this beautiful Burgundian building.
DOMAINE OF THE LAMBRAYS
A domaine historical
THE Clos of the Lambrays, a medieval heritage
We meet Jacques Devauges, the manager of the domaine, with whom we resume the history of the domaine. The history of property is closely linked to that of the Clos of the Lambrays from which it inherited its name. The archives of Cîteaux Abbey allow us to find the first mention of the “Clos of the Lambraysdating from 1365Even back then, the superior quality of the terroir convinced the winegrowers to build a clos all around the vines to isolate them. At the time, the hierarchy climates of Burgundy and the concepts of Grand Cru or Premier Cru did not exist. Nevertheless, the winemakers had already identified the plots from which the greatest wines came. For them, the vines that produced great wines regardless of the vintage deserved to be isolated by a clos or to be identified in the land registry. Today's Grands Crus and Premiers Crus are largely inherited from this first classification.
The rebirth of a Grand Cru exceptional
Throughout history, particularly during the French Revolution, THE clos It was broken up and divided among different owners. These owners sought to reconstitute the entirety of the Clos throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, without success. 1936, THE clos is listed as Premier CrusFamilies Joly And Rodier, then owners, undertake groundwork to promote the quality of the clos. They manage to gather the plots of clos by buying them back one by one from the various owners. Thanks to their work, the Clos of the Lambrays eventually attains the rank of 33rd Grand Cru of Burgundy in 1981.
THE Saier brothers Then the Freund family succeeded one another at the head of the property and embellished it. In 2014, the group LVMH takes back the reins and registers the domaine in a pursuit of excellence. Today, the domaine owns 11 hectares in total and 8.33 hectares of Clos of the Lambrays, either a almost-monopole.
From vine to cellar: the perpetual quest for excellence
The vineyard
Since the arrival of Jacques Devauges Some changes were made to the vineyard. He opted for conversion to agriculture biological whose certification will appear for the first time on the 2022 vintage and of the biodynamics (not yet certified). Although convinced by these farming methods, the manager of the domaine This indicates that the path to organic farming has not been easy. The elimination of synthetic products inevitably leads to a decrease in yield during the first two years of conversion. Quantities have therefore suffered a 50% decrease on the vintages 2019 And 2020The spring frost of 2021 also decimated 50% of the vintage's production.
Fortunately, 2022 offered returns and a remarkable quality and this vintage officially marks the transition to organic of the property.
Continuing in this pursuit of excellence, Jacques Devauges made the choice of a partial approach in the work of his vineyards. He adapts viticultural practices and harvest dates to the specific characteristics of each vine. clos is thus divided into different zones grown individually in order to bring out all the geological diversity And climate of this Grand Cru complex.
Winemaking
The changes didn't stop at the vineyard, since Jacques Devauges initiated the complete renovation of the winery of winemaking. We enter the heart of the building and discover the magnificent, brand-new winery. The stone walls and timber frame pay homage to Burgundy's architectural heritage. A large skylight allows natural light to flood the room. The large wooden vats of varying capacities allow for the plot-by-plot vinification of all the vineyard sites. domaine and in particular Clos of the Lambrays. The system is designed for gravity-flow winemaking. No pumps are used throughout the entire winemaking process. motorized walkways This method allows the grapes to be lifted to the winery. The wine is then transported to the aging cellar by natural gravity and the use of lifting tanks. This winemaking method allows reduce trauma on wine and preserve all the delicacy of the fruitWithout astringency or bitterness. Texture, balance and aromas are preserved!
The tasting
THE Clos of the Lambrays : the merging of a multitude of plots
The aging cellar is divided into two parts: the historic cellar and the new cellarThe cellar extension follows the expansion of the vineyard across several climats of Morey-Saint-Denis and Puligny-Montrachet.
Jacques Devauges continues the plot-by-plot approach right through to the winemaking process. Indeed, this Grand Cru exceptional covers only 8.33 hectares and yet, a multitude of microclimates It is composed of them. Each plot is raised independently in a barrel dedicated to it. Following this bespoke aging process, Jacques Devauges proceeds to what he calls the wine meetingHe does not seek to create a blend imbued with his own style and tastes. He assembles the barrels while faithfully respecting the proportions that each parcel represents in the vineyard. Clos of the LambraysWe therefore had the privilege of discovering the specific characteristics of each of the plots during a barrel tasting of the 2022 vintage.
We are truly impressed by the great personality from each of the plots: so geographically close, yet so unique in their expression. One touches us with its great delicacy, another charms us with its vigor, another stands out with its assured structure: each possesses its own personality and approaches excellence. These plots will be blended before bottling in large containers. There, the magic happens, each cuvée expresses its full potential. perfection and enters symbiosis perfect with the others.
2021: A vintage year for winemakers
2021 is characterized by the freshness of the vintage. Jacques Devauges, convinced by minimal intervention winemaking, resisted the temptation of punching down and pumping over. The wine took time to develop color but eventually acquired a hue of beautiful ruby red Not very intense, but brilliant. According to him, it's in challenging vintages that the true greatness of the terroir is revealed. With the 2021 vintage, it's undeniably the quality of the terroir which allows us to produce great wines!
We are immediately charmed by the floral and delicious bouquet of Morey Saint-Denis 2021. The delicate red fruits transport us to a beautiful, juicy and vibrant tasting experience.
With the Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru The wolves of 2021, The level rises a notch. The tannins are delicate, the aromas of red fruits, fine spices and undergrowth blend in perfect balance.
Finally, the Clos of the Lambrays 2021 offers us a truly exceptional tasting experience. Complex aromas unfold on the palate, culminating in an outstanding finish. Perfect balance, delicacy, and great complexity make this Grand Cru An absolutely exceptional vintage, to be kept in the cellar for years.
This tasting will leave us with an unforgettable memory. The heritage of this exceptional estate is perfectly showcased by Jacques Devauges. Recent investments, the team's passion, and the meticulous care given to the vines elevate the Domaine of the Lambrays among the most beautiful properties of Burgundy.
DOMAINE OF THE LAMBRAYS